Crystal Diamond Case

May 11
2008



Crystal Diamond Case

Corum Vintage spirit trio Ladies Diamond Watch

When Rene Bannwart created Corum in 1955, he was determined to place it in the vanguard of the watch industry. This choice gave rise to some amazing models that have become watchmaking classics, such as the Romvlvs and the Admiral's Cup, and even full-fledged icons, like the Golden Bridge. Corum has not however chosen to express its creativity exclusively through masculine models, but has also made its creative mark by introducing feminine watches. 2010 provides an opportunity to rediscover three of them, since they are to be re-issued in limited series.

Chinese Hat and Golden Tube. © Marc Ninghetto

The Golden Tube… a 1950s style icon

The first piece in this collection is the Golden Tube, which dates back to 1957. It embodies the inimitable style of the 1950s, a simple and geometrical design that remains imbued with a genuinely fanciful touch, while radiating a uniquely graceful elegance.

Entirely reflecting the spirit of the era, the Golden Tube is in tune with the "Sack" dresses with their straight, pure lines launched by Hubert de Givenchy in 19571.

Golden Tube. © Corum

The Golden Tube – as much a watch as a piece of jewelry – is indeed formed by a 31 mmlong, 14.5 mm-diameter tube that is worn like a cuff-watch. Freely fixed to the bracelet along which it slides, this tube can thus be wrapped around the wrist like a lucky charm on its bracelet. Its polished gold case is surrounded by gem-set lines forming diamond gadroons. Its sides are also set with concentric lines of gems. The model is thus embellished by 342 gemstones in all, totaling 3.58 carats. The case is enhanced by a fluted crown positioned at 12 o'clock and adorned with a white mother-of-pearl cabochon. The dial comes either set with diamonds or in white mother-of-pearl with three diamonds at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. The model is available in white or red gold, and may be fitted with an alligator leather strap or a gem-set gold bracelet. It will be issued in a limited numbered edition of 30 pieces red gold and in white gold.

Once upon a time there was a story of the Chinese Hat

The second re-edition in this trio of Vintage watches was introduced in 1958. Nicknamed the Chinese Hat, its shape does indeed evoke the hat worn by peasants working in the rice fields of the Middle Kingdom. The round case and its sapphire crystal are cambered along the 6-12 o'clock axis, and these curves are accentuated by the diamond-set lines playing around the bezel. The 33 mm-diameter case is studded with 142 full-cut diamonds totaling 2.44 carats.

Chinese Hat. © Corum

This watch comes with a white mother-of-pearl dial enhanced by three diamonds or, for those who prefer a more richly jeweled version, a dial entirely paved with diamonds. In order to preserve the pure, smooth lines of the case, the miniature quartz movement is set to time by means of a corrector concealed beneath the case. The watch is available in red gold or white gold with a leather strap or gem-set gold bracelet, and it will be issued in a limited numbered edition of 30 pieces in red gold and in white gold.

Timelessness and elegance are the keynotes of the Round Golden Bridge

The third model re-issued by Corum is the Round Golden Bridge, the most resolutely "horological" of the three, since it beats to the cadence of the legendary C0113 baguette movement. This micromechanical masterpiece was created by Corum exactly 30 years ago.

Accommodating its 140 components housed within a space just 33 mm long, 3 mm high and Less Than 5 mm thick represents a remarkable feat, especially when one considers that this mechanical hand-wound caliber is equipped with a variable-inertia balance beating at a frequency of 4 Hertz and ensuring optimal reliability and precision. Other refined technical features include a barrel equipped with slip-springs, a 40-hour power reserve, as well as the solid gold hand-engraved mainplate and bridges. This model enables connoisseurs to admire its finishing from all angles, due to the fact that its guilloché-work dial is placed not above, but rather on either side of the movement, and also thanks to the transparent caseback.

The large 41 mm case diameter and opening thus fully reveal the caliber in all its splendid majesty. Even the hands are openworked so as not to hide as little of possible of the movement which is truly given pride of place. The Round Golden Bridge will be issued in a Limited Edition of 75 pieces.

These three Vintage editions forming a decidedly exclusive collection will be available in the brand's own-name boutiques (in Geneva, Hong Kong and Shanghai), as well as from around ten selected retailers worldwide as of end of October.

Chinese Hat - Creation year 1958

Reference: Limited Edition 30 pieces
White gold, mother-of-pearl dial 237.101.69/0081 PN01
White gold, diamond set dial 237.101.69/0081 GR34
Red gold, mother-of-pearl dial 237.101.85/0081 PN01
Red gold, diamond set dial 237.101.85/0081 GD34

Movement: CO237
Quartz movement
Frequency: 32'768 Hz
5 rubies
Functions: Hours, Minutes

Case: 34mm
18kt red gold 5N or 18kt white gold, round cambered shape
Case set with 142 round diamonds for 2.44 ct
Screwed case back, satin finish
Hour and minute corrector on the caseback
Dial: White mother-of-pearl or set with diamonds
Black skeleton hour and minute baton hands
Glass: Cambered sapphire crystal

Bracelet, strap: Black crocodile leather strap or 18kt gold bracelet set with 337 diamonds for
6.39 ct
Buckle: Red or white gold tongue buckle
Water-resistance 30 meters (3atm / 99feet)

Round Golden Bridge - creation year 1994

Reference 113.247.55/0001 FN15
Limited Edition of 75 pieces

Movement: CO113
Mechanical baguette movement, hand-wound by a stem at 6 o'clock
Slipping spring mechanism
Variable inertia balance adjustable by screws
Frequency: 4Hz, 28'800 vibrations/hour
19 Jewels
18kt red gold hand-engraved plate and bridges
Power reserve of 40 hours
Functions: Hours, Minutes

Case: 41mm
Case in 18kt red gold 5N, round shape
Polished finish on the top, satin finish on the caseback
Screwed caseback with see-through opening under the movement
Fluted crown at 6 o'clock, decorated with Corum key
Case and horns decorated with gadroons
Dial: Black with vertical guilloché
Red gold 5N coated hour indexes on the flange
Skeleton hour and minute baton hands
Glass: Sapphire crystal

Strap: Black crocodile leather strap, hand-stitched
Buckle 18kt red gold tongue buckle
Water-resistance 30 meters (3atm / 99feet)

Golden Tube 2010 - Creation year 1957

Reference: Limited Edition 30 pieces
White gold, mother-of-pearl dial 137.801.69/0081 PN01
White gold, diamond set dial 137.801.69/0081 GR34
Red gold, mother-of-pearl dial 137.801.85/0081 PN01
Red gold, diamond set dial 137.801.85/0081 GD34

Movement: CO137
Quartz movement
Frequency 32'768 Hz
5 rubies
Functions: Hours, Minutes

Case Tube shaped, 31mm long, diameter of 14.5mm
Case in 18kt red gold 5N or 18kt white gold
Case set with 342 round diamonds for 3.58 ct
Fluted crown at 12 o'clock, decorated with a mother-of-pearl insert
Sliding along the bracelet
Dial: White mother-of-pearl or set with diamonds
Black skeleton hour and minute baton hands
Glass: Sapphire crystal

Bracelet: Black crocodile leather strap or 18kt gold bracelet set with diamonds
Buckle: Red or white gold tongue buckle
Water-resistance 30 meters (3atm / 99feet)

About the Author

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